3 Editors On The State Of New York Fashion Week

The increasingly satisfying Paris Fashion Week Men’s circuit and ingenious theatrics of Couture Week have just scraped the surface of our fashion fill for the top of the year. Kicking off in just a couple of days, February 9 marks the beginning of New York Fashion Week’s Fall/Winter 2024 shows. Peter Do opens the calendar with his second season at Helmut Lang, and although we’d become slightly accustomed to Luar closing NYFW (as he has the past three seasons), instead, Raul will be showing this season on February 13. Thom Browne comes back to the American fashion calendar and closes out the week.

NYFW in the city that never sleeps continues to shift and evolve year after year. From the calendar to venues to attendees, it has either been something to adapt to as a seasoned showgoer or a brand new experience for those new to the scene. Changes this year included IMG swearing in the Starrett-Lehigh Building in Chelsea as the new hub for presentations. A location not quite like those of yesteryear, such as the beloved tents of Bryant Park or Spring Studios, the home of the last five years. Similarly, many are trying to make peace with the prioritized shift to not only accommodate the usual fashion editors, writers, and buyers but also the new guard of influencers, TikTokers, and celebrities galore lining the front row.

Yet, with the feverish joy of the week that lies ahead and in light of all this adapting, we asked a few fashion editors what they are looking forward to with this February’s shows, along with where they hope to possibly see improvements. Speaking with Tchesmeni Leonard, senior fashion editor at Condé Nast; Anika Reed, life and entertainment editor at USA Today, and Jamila Stewart, a freelance fashion editor, there are common themes that seemed to both excite and draw critique from these insiders.

Below you’ll find these editors’ opinions on NYFW and what they expect to happen as they attend shows and events all week long.

ESSENCE.com: What does the preparation for New York Fashion Week look like for you? 

Anika Reed: It’s fun, but there are layers of stress. As we get closer, I’m very much scrambling trying to think of outfits, and beyond that, what do we need? What does my team need? What am I going to write about? What is the daily going to look like? How am I getting from place to place?

Tchesmeni Leonardi: It’s hard to say whether it’s more about the designers or just more about where I’m at in my life. But I’m more like, okay what do I want to start shooting? I’m thinking about what I want to see next season? Like what do I want to shoot next season? My mind is ruminating about a lot of other things outside of the collections sometimes or the shows because there’s so much going on.

Jamila Stewart: I am usually scrambling and trying to square away any outstanding work. Then I set an outfit theme for the week because there’s something delightfully costumey about fashion week.

Who are the designers/what are the shows that excite you?

AR: For me, I feel like Brandon Maxwell knows how to dress a woman. I feel like the pieces from his collections are beautiful. There’s always pieces from the runway that I’m like, I need that, I want that. I [always] feel a visceral reaction [to his collections].

TL: There are some shows that are just so stunning that you are actually moved. The production is amazing, the collection is amazing, and you’re like, this was worth it. The shows that impact me the most are the ones that have a very strong point of view or story. 

JS: I’m looking forward to Area, Thom Browne, and Khaite, because I think they bring the most drama to fashion week. Thome and Khaite specifically have incredible set design.

How do you feel about the new crowd at the shows?

AR: You know it can feel like they are filling up spaces that maybe previously went to different people, who may have focused on the actual news and the critique of fashion, but it’s hard too,  because you have people who are really experts, they just happen to be influencers, right? So I never want to be too judgmental. I think things have just been a little chaotic over the past few years, more than ever.

TL: I would appreciate it if the brands thought about why we are having each of these groups at the shows. If we have to coexist in the same space, it’d be nice if things were a little bit more streamlined. If you’re going to prioritize influencers over editors at shows, then maybe have two showings where people can get close to the clothes or you have a private preview for editors.

JS: I’m not looking forward to the inhumanity with which people are treated in line and at the doors. Democratizing the fashion scene is all good and fine, but when it becomes extremely literal it has made it really unenjoyable to attend as a professional. I think the brands need to learn how to navigate this better.

What are you looking forward to the most this NYFW?

AR: “I feel like I know people more now, and I do get excited to see other editors, other writers, like other people who are just good and kind people.

TL: I get to see everyone that I haven’t seen or I don’t get to see. There’s so much camaraderie for the most part during Fashion Week, everyone’s so drained and bedraggled, you know, and you’re running into people that you like, even if it’s for a brief moment and just sharing in your excitement for a show or even sharing in your exhaustion or frustration. Fashion week is a very emotional experience.”

JS: What I look forward to most this season is catching up with people that I mostly only get to speak to virtually, especially since I am based in Los Angeles. I’m looking forward to the surrounding events and parties more so than shows, I’m honestly mostly looking forward to the social aspect.