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London Fashion Week is officially in full swing with this Fall/Winter 2024 season starting from February 16 to 20. Black designers even in London are not celebrated as much as they should be. More established names like Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, and even Bianca Saunders can give the illusion that they are, but contrarily, Black designers and Black talent in general are not celebrated to the extent as their white or non-Black counterparts. That’s why we at ESSENCE find it of the utmost importance to uplift our own designers and talent throughout all facets of the fashion industry.
In the coming days shows and presentations from rising British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, emerging designer Abigail Ajobi, and established line Ahluwalia will commence. LFW tends to be a favorite in the fashion industry thanks to Central Saint Martins, an arts and desig school in London where legendary designers like John Galliano and Alexander McQueen got their start. Keep scrolling to know all the Black designers to look out for this season.
Tolu Coker – February 16
British Nigerian designer Tolu Coker is making a name for herself. She launched her brand in 2018 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Coker is also a multimedia artist so her designs are often from her own experiences. She has an incredible eye for storytelling through the format of clothing and also uses the vehicle of fashion as a mode for social and political change.
NOK NOK – February 16
Designer Angel Nokonoko who founded his London-based NOK NOK is another CSM graduate. Before launching his brand, he was cutting his teeth at Christian Dior and Galliano gaining knowledge on running a brand. Nokonoko’s designs are inspired by subcultures of music and art like punk rock, hip hop, skateboarding, and more. He works with denim often speaking to another facet of his background–he previously freelanced at Tommy Hilfiger and worked with the brand’s denim.
SABIRAH – February 16
SABIRAH, founded by Deborah Latouche in 2020 is a modest luxury brand for all women. Latouche was a celebrity stylist before launching her brand and felt that it was time to do something new. This personal project was prompted by Latouche wanting clothing that actually suits her as a Muslim woman. She works with sustainable fabrics and makes small quantities of pieces to limit waste.
Ahluwalia – February 17
Ahluwalia was founded by Indian-Nigerian designer Priya Ahluwalia. She often pulls inspiration from the intersections of her cultures as well as the intersections between “near and far, past and present,” as said on her brand’s site. The designer also works with limited quantities of fabrics, often upcycling and using patchwork techniques to limit waste. Her eponymous brand has grown exponentially since her launching in 2018 as her brand is now a multi-award winning label.
LABRUM London – February 17
LABRUM London was founded by designer Foday Dumbuya in 2014. The word “labrum” is Latin for “having an edge.” Dumbuya’s designs are inspired by his West African and British heritages. He tells stories through his work with simple silhouettes brought to life with the vibrancy of his West African roots.
EASTWOOD DANSO – February 17
Eastwood Danso founded his eponymous label in 2016 while still in high school. Danso modeled in Samuel Ross’ 2016 collection and others while he built the arc of his business. The Ghanaian-British designer’s works emulate and touch on facets of his British-Ghanaian background, he also fuses politics and intertwines each of these subjects into wearable streetwear silhouettes. He’s worked with brands like Nike and Converse and ventured to school at CSM.
SAUL NASH – February 18
Saul Nash founded his eponymous label in 2018 after graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2018 and CSM in 2015 where he studied Performance Design. Nash was a dancer and choreographer before venturing into designing a brand. The designer won the International Woolmark Prize in 2022 and the Queen Elizabeth II award for British Design also in 2022. His designs are inspired by his affinity for movement as he creates pieces that are a healthy balance between luxury and athleisure.
Abigail Ajobi – February 18
AbigailAjobi founded her namesake brand in 2020. Ajobi creates pieces to address social issues happening throughout the world with print-based designs. She has a strong focus on sustainability and solely makes small quantities of pieces with deadstock fabrics. The designer often donates to charities with parts of her profit from collections as well.
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